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Ruger Security Six .357 Impulse Buy

This is a discussion on Ruger Security Six .357 Impulse Buy within the Gun Talk forums, part of the Gunner Forum category; I've been saying my next gun would be a 44 Mag or 45 Colt. I've also been saying "no more guns this year." Well my ...


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Old 12-02-2016, 01:17 PM   #1
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Ruger Security Six .357 Impulse Buy

I've been saying my next gun would be a 44 Mag or 45 Colt. I've also been saying "no more guns this year." Well my range had this stainless Ruger Security Six .357 at a reasonable price. ($ 399) It's pretty similar to the only other centerfire revolver I own, the GP100, so maybe not the most rational purchase. But people who own them tend to be fanatical about them. I never see a "what .357 should I get" thread that doesn't have at least one response of "Don't buy a GP100 til you've checked out a used Security Six." After I checked it out and dry fired it I had to have it. The single action trigger is a DREAM and a super crisp 3 lb 11 Oz. Double action is very smooth and has a much shorter pull than the GP100, with a 7 lb 11 oz pull. The gun was made in 1977. Lockup and timing are perfect, and the bore and chambers look good. The finger grooves of the Pachmayr grips line up with my hand a little better than the Hogues on the GP100. Haven't shot it yet, since I looked at it on the way out of the range.



This shows the Securiity Six on top and the GP100 at the bottom. Both are 4" barrels. The GP's frame is just a bit bigger and heavier.


Last edited by Shakyshoot; 12-02-2016 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 12-02-2016, 01:26 PM   #2
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Shaky, ya done good. I've been looking for one of those Six series guns for years. I never see them come up for sale in this area. Never. People just don't let go of them. They are really the closest thing in terms of pointing and handling to a nice Smith that Ruger has ever made. The GP-100 does feel clunky by comparison. Good for you.
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Old 12-02-2016, 01:28 PM   #3
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Nice score! I've been keepin an eyeball peeled for one for a while now too.
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Old 12-02-2016, 01:51 PM   #4
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Can't wait for the range report.
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Old 12-02-2016, 02:07 PM   #5
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Bought a brand new Security Six just like yours in 1980 for $ 310. Prices sure change, huh?

I put a set of Herrett walnut grips on it, I think the grip style was called Shooting Star? Fuller than those skinny Ruger grips it came with. Did a trigger job on it with Micro-Mesh abrasive strips. They went down to 8000 grit, IIRC. Yours has probably smoothed nicely with use.

I'd like another one better than a GP, myself. Great gun, I guarantee you'll enjoy it. A county PD detective bought mine from me, many years ago.
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Old 12-02-2016, 08:25 PM   #6
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My first revolver was a 4" Speed Six, like yours but fixed sights. It was a 200 year edition I bought in 1976, I think. Terrible to shoot magnum loads with the tiny scales it came with but much better with good grips. I think you will be very happy you got that. I think I paid $200.00 for it new. You did good!!
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Old 12-02-2016, 08:26 PM   #7
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I liked it much, much, better than the GP-100. Sits lower and so much better trigger.
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Old 12-03-2016, 05:06 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Machinist View Post
My first revolver was a 4" Speed Six, like yours but fixed sights. It was a 200 year edition I bought in 1976, I think. Terrible to shoot magnum loads with the tiny scales it came with but much better with good grips. I think you will be very happy you got that. I think I paid $ 200.00 for it new. You did good!!
My very first bought by me gun was a blued Speed Six with Ruger's odd 2 3/4" barrel. Bought it used for $100 in '79. Started me onto a long list of Rugers. I've owned very few that weren't.
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Old 12-04-2016, 01:13 PM   #9
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Made the rare weekend range trip to shoot the new Security Six. I shot 64 rd of .38 Spl and 36 rd of .357. It shot very well, but I had a real problem with ejecting the .357 cases after shooting some .38's. I had to push several out with a screwdriver. I know they always say to shoot the .357's first, but I've always shot .38's then .357's in my GP100 and never had a problem. (And I'm not averse to going a couple of range trips before cleaning) I did brush out the chambers and bore before shooting. I also had a failure to fire on the very last round. The primer looked like it was indented enough to fire, but it was a lighter hit than others I checked. It went bang on the second try.
I didn't go past 10 yd, and I only shot 24 rounds double action. Did pretty well all around. The best groups were 5/8" at 7 yd with .38's, and 1" at 10 yards with .357's.


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Old 12-04-2016, 01:36 PM   #10
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If a previous user fired a lot of .38s in it there may be a little erosion in the space ahead of the .38 case mouth. It only takes a slight bit of roughening to make fouling build up quickly and that would make the longer cases stick. I would try a good cleaning and then see if the cases stick when shooting .357s without shooting .38s first. If they do then you might need to polish the chambers to shoot .357s or stick to .38s. If they eject OK then you would only have to look at that if you will keep mixing them.

The misfire could be from an old spring losing some tension or from someone cutting it to lighten the pull. This is always a concern with an older gun. If a replacement spring is available it should not cost much. If the other firing pin marks are deep then you might make sure the transfer bar is in good shape and moving properly. Just my thoughts, I haven't had a "six" in a long time. I traded mine for a 4" S&W Highway Patrolman..

Looks like it shoots well. I hope it does not give you problems as it looks like a good revolver.
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Old 12-04-2016, 02:35 PM   #11
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That's good shooting......

You didn't mention cleaning anything before you shot it. It might just need a good internal clean; could be some gummy 39 year old lube in the action and around the firing pin, too. Shooting the 38s first probably just left some crud that the 357 cases hung on.
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Old 12-04-2016, 03:11 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by bearcatter View Post
That's good shooting......

You didn't mention cleaning anything before you shot it. It might just need a good internal clean; could be some gummy 39 year old lube in the action and around the firing pin, too. Shooting the 38s first probably just left some crud that the 357 cases hung on.
As I said, I did brush out the chambers and bore. That's why I was surprised to get the .357's sticking that quickly. The chambers seem pretty loose when you load the rounds. Even now after shooting, the .357's will drop right in if you point the barrel down and plunk them in. Didn't do any internal cleaning. I've only done it once in 2000 rd with my GP100, and I struggled with it. At least now I've done it once, and it's fairly similar on the Security Six.
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Old 12-04-2016, 03:23 PM   #13
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Shaky, I've had to polish the chambers on new Rugers, even. Makes a big difference when extracting empties.
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Old 12-04-2016, 03:29 PM   #14
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Shaky, I've had to polish the chambers on new Rugers, even. Makes a big difference when extracting empties.
What's the best way to do it?
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Old 12-04-2016, 07:31 PM   #15
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Nothing fancy. I take the end section of my cleaning rod with a soft brush (not wire brush) attached and stick it in my 14" drill, using rubbing compound for cars or even Flitz metal polish. If things are really rough, can use something coarser to start. I'm sure there are more professional ways to do it, but this has worked for a amateur gunsmith like me.
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Old 12-04-2016, 08:41 PM   #16
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Thanks--I'll give it a try. I'd really feel like I was missing something if I had to shoot only .38 or only .357. Typically when I bring my GP I shoot 24 or 30 .38's, then 24 or 30 .357's. I could live with shooting the .357s first, but I really like to shoot both. I don't reload, so I can't just shoot light .357's.
By the way, I was thinking the recoil of the .357's might be more noticeable with this gun vs the GP100, which is 6 oz heavier. If anything, the .357's are more comfortable with the Security Six, because the grip seems to fit me better.
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Old 12-05-2016, 12:47 AM   #17
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The bore line is also lower over the hand with the smaller revolver. This seems to reduce lift and felt recoil. One reason I prefer the K frame to the L frame S&W. The L frame is better for holding up to magnum loads, though.
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Old 12-05-2016, 03:57 AM   #18
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Shakyshoot, I bought one of the SP 101's in 4". I've had it for over a year now.
I sold my S&W 686 and bought it. It is far better a shooter that the S&W.

Last edited by KimberLover; 12-05-2016 at 06:07 AM.
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Old 12-05-2016, 07:10 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by north country gal View Post
Nothing fancy. I take the end section of my cleaning rod with a soft brush (not wire brush) attached and stick it in my 14" drill, using rubbing compound for cars or even Flitz metal polish. If things are really rough, can use something coarser to start. I'm sure there are more professional ways to do it, but this has worked for a amateur gunsmith like me.
I'd like to see that 14 inch drill......

A little variation on how I did some High Standards I had. I used a couple of dots of Flitz on a bore mop; with my variable speed drill set pretty slow. Mine were just a little rough, so about 30 seconds per chamber was enough.

Last edited by bearcatter; 12-05-2016 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 12-06-2016, 10:52 AM   #20
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Got my cylinder all polished up. First I wet the chambers with Hoppes and let it sit for 1/2 hour, then a normal brass brush scrub. Wiped that out, then did the power drill thing with a mop and some Dremel polishing compound. Then more Hoppes and patches.
Took it to the range today. I didn't do anything great at shooting, but at least all the cases ejected smooth as butter. And I did shoot some 357's after the .38's. I shot 20 .357's, then 50 .38's, then 10 .357's. The last .357's ejected as easily as the first. After I did the polishing I could see there's some very slight roughness/pitting in the "38 ring" areas, so I'll have to really keep on top of it if I want to continue shooting .38's.
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