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furniture finishing

This is a discussion on furniture finishing within the Gun Care forums, part of the Gunner Forum category; Originally Posted by 303Lithgow Dang it was a No 1 Lithgow. That is my most favorite gun. The rear sight was on the barrel and ...


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Old 07-08-2012, 02:58 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by 303Lithgow View Post
Dang it was a No 1 Lithgow. That is my most favorite gun.
The rear sight was on the barrel and all 3 pieces of wood and all matched perfect . The wood was well grained with red , orange , yellow and brown colors threw out stock . I was told it was mazanita ?? It was the prettiest wood on any gun I've ever owned . I had that gun for over 40 years .
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:25 PM   #22
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The rear sight was on the barrel and all 3 pieces of wood and all matched perfect . The wood was well grained with red , orange , yellow and brown colors threw out stock . I was told it was mazanita ?? It was the prettiest wood on any gun I've ever owned . I had that gun for over 40 years .
I think you are right about the stock. The No 1 Lithgows stocks are differant then any of the other Enfields.
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:27 PM   #23
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Here is the re-finished stock on the M'sL and untouched (even unfired) 92.

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Old 07-17-2012, 09:52 PM   #24
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I've been applying linseed oil to the new Rossi 92. This time I'm having better luck than when I did the Mare's Leg. I think the big differance is its now a lot warmer and the relative humidity is a lot lower. Before the oil wouldn't dry or thicken in a week's time but now it will overnight.

Guess I shouldn't have been so cheap with the heat. I don't turn on the furnace unless it drops into the 40's.
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Old 07-18-2012, 02:36 AM   #25
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Linseed oil you need to rub it with your bare hand till it heats up and you keep rubbing it adding a few drops at a time .You due a small area at a time and keep rubbing and adding oil keeping it warm . That is how the ones in pic was done . Each gun below took about 10 hours of rubbing on each one .





Now the gun below is a rattle can finish and done in a few hours , oooo steel wool each coat and adding a coat every hour . I just done this a couple days ago to the new wood I got for my tommy gun ..



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Old 07-18-2012, 09:46 AM   #26
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Beautiful results!
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Old 07-18-2012, 10:06 AM   #27
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Linseed oil you need to rub it with your bare hand till it heats up and you keep rubbing it adding a few drops at a time .You due a small area at a time and keep rubbing and adding oil keeping it warm . That is how the ones in pic was done . Each gun below took about 10 hours of rubbing on each one .
That is the way I've done it in the past (or similar) and the way I'm doing the 92 but the M'sL just would not take the linseed oil. Its better to do it in warmer weather.

I usually will put too much on and let it sit for half and hour, then wipe the excess off and start buffing it in with my hands. Most stocks I've done have been old and already had linseed oil applied and I'm just top-coating it. The M'sL and 92 rifle were the first new wood I've done it too.

You're right about the amount of time it takes. I'm usually doing it while watching a ballgame on the tube.
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Old 07-18-2012, 12:40 PM   #28
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This was done the way they did over 200 years ago .



They used lamp oil and linseed oil . When the wood quit sucking in the L&L oil mix you know water or mosture will NEVER get into the wood to warp or crack it and finish it with linseed oil only . That is why there are super old gun stocks around and the Pa and Ky full stock gun are not bent like dogs rear leg .
This stock is not stained . I used acid to turn wood brown or black , the longer you leave it on the darker it get . When the color gets where you want it you water and vingar mix to neutralize the acid .
I carved the stock from a block of wood and fit everything by hand and no power tool were used in the building of this gun . Green Mnt barrel , Davis trigger and L&R lock were used .

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Old 07-18-2012, 03:12 PM   #29
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I think a big part of the problem is the boiled linseed oil we get today hasn't been boiled. They just add an accellerator to it as a drying agent. I have an old can of it and its half dried right out of the can.
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Old 07-18-2012, 04:11 PM   #30
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I think a big part of the problem is the boiled linseed oil we get today hasn't been boiled. They just add an accellerator to it as a drying agent. I have an old can of it and its half dried right out of the can.
I use raw linseed oil not boiled . Boiled has dryer in it and I wanted it to go super deep in wood that why I soak the wood in a 50% linseed oil and 50% kerosine till the wood will not suck anymore in it . Then hand rubbed linseed oil or tung oil for the finish . I only did that flinter that way because I didn't want the full stock to twist or crack in the next 200 years . I use the rattle cans 99% of the time . I don't like plastic or urethane paint the adhesion suck . Enamel , tung oil and lacquer seem to stick much better in my opinion .

Last edited by tx gun runner; 07-18-2012 at 04:23 PM.
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Old 07-18-2012, 04:38 PM   #31
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I use raw linseed oil not boiled . Boiled has dryer in it and I wanted it to go super deep in wood that why I soak the wood in a 50% linseed oil and 50% kerosine till the wood will not suck anymore in it . Then hand rubbed linseed oil or tung oil for the finish . I only did that flinter that way because I didn't want the full stock to twist or crack in the next 200 years . I use the rattle cans 99% of the time . I don't like plastic or urethane paint the adhesion suck . Enamel , tung oil and lacquer seem to stick much better in my opinion .
I should try that with the M'sL. I don't like how it turned out. Its close but no cigar.
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Old 07-18-2012, 05:01 PM   #32
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I should try that with the M'sL. I don't like how it turned out. Its close but no cigar.
You tryed which finish ?

Did you like he finish on the 1897 winc

Last edited by tx gun runner; 07-18-2012 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 07-23-2012, 12:56 PM   #33
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You tryed which finish ?

Did you like he finish on the 1897 winc
Yes the finish on the 1897 is great. I ended up stripping the Poly off the Mare's L and starting over. Its odd that the 92 rifle just took a few coats of linseed and a few hours and it turned out great. The M'sL wood just will not take the linseed very well.
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Old 07-23-2012, 04:45 PM   #34
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I restained the M'sL and put a couple coats of linseed oil on it but it just keeps soaking it in and doesn't look like anything is on it. So I put a coat of tung oil on it and that started to make it look moist. I don't know how long tung oil lasts compared to linseed oil but it appears to be doing the job.
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Old 07-24-2012, 08:33 PM   #35
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I put a second coat of tung oil on the M's L today and its really beginning to look nice. The weather is warmer also and it helps with the drying time.
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:38 PM   #36
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I put a second coat of tung oil on the M's L today and its really beginning to look nice. The weather is warmer also and it helps with the drying time.
Are you steel wooling each coat before puting another coat on . Waiting for pic ......
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:41 PM   #37
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Are you steel wooling each coat before puting another coat on . Waiting for pic ......
I didn't steel wool it between the first and second coats but will after the second coat. I put the second coat on while it was still a bit tacky but know will wait till its fully dried and cured.
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:52 PM   #38
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I didn't steel wool it between the first and second coats but will after the second coat. I put the second coat on while it was still a bit tacky but know will wait till its fully dried and cured.
Tung oil 12 more coat should do it.......... I let 24 hr drying time between coats for steel wooling and the last coat I steel wool again and a good car wax will finish it off ..
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:27 PM   #39
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Tung oil 12 more coat should do it.......... I let 24 hr drying time between coats for steel wooling and the last coat I steel wool again and a good car wax will finish it off ..
The first coat dried fast enough that in a few hours I could put a second coat on it if I didn't steel wool it. But I'm not at the point where I need to let it dry completely and use the steel wool. I've been applying it with my fingers and I can get a nice coat on it.
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Old 07-25-2012, 07:41 PM   #40
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The first coat dried fast enough that in a few hours I could put a second coat on it if I didn't steel wool it. But I'm not at the point where I need to let it dry completely and use the steel wool. I've been applying it with my fingers and I can get a nice coat on it.
Since your not letting it dry overnight . Try taking a piece of Levi and rub the tung oil in the wood using it . It is like using 600 grit sandpaper and wet sanding it . I sold all my guns I tung oil .
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