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303Lithgow 06-22-2012 07:21 PM

furniture finishing
 
I found this can today and remember using it on hunting rifle stocks. It is suppost to be brushed on but I've applied it in very thin coats with my fingers. In warm dry weather I can apply a new coat about every 15 minutes. After a dozen coats you need to let it dry for a week and scuff it with 000 steel wool and put another dozen coats on. Just think of applying it like you would Tung Oil Finish.

http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_0008.jpg

tx gun runner 06-22-2012 09:22 PM

Polyurethane which is almost a paint and don't soak in wood and can be peel off wood . Tongue oil goes deep in wood and drys hard and linseed oil soak super deep but must be rubbed hard to shine .

I started out with a block of wood and hand cut and fitted everything . THIS WAS NOT A KIT GUN

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...51/flint-2.jpg

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture068.jpg

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...lintlock-1.jpg

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture069.jpg

303Lithgow 06-22-2012 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tx gun runner (Post 153930)
Polyurethane which is almost a paint and don't soak in wood and can be peel off wood . Tongue oil goes deep in wood and drys hard and linseed oil soak super deep but must be rubbed hard to shine .

I think thats true if you paint it on but I apply it with my fingers and palm and force it into the wood. I polish it in using friction which causes it to heat-up. This can was purchased at Ernst Hardware which went out of business about 20 years ago. The rifles I used it on back then are still holding the finish.

tx gun runner 06-23-2012 05:33 AM

It depends on what you need the finish to do or how to protect wood in which finish to use . I have guns with 4 different finishes for over 20 yrs . I use and like lacquer in a spray can . Its super fast to spray and put on wood and it is super hard finish and drys super fast . Tung and linseed oils the wood sucks them in and can't be removed from wood like polyurethane or laquer which are paints that set on top of wood and not sucked into wood . The oils can't and will never chip and let moisture into wood where paint will and allow wood to warp or swell and change POA . So you chose for your needs .

http://www.ehow.com/about_4618228_po...ane-paint.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tung_oil

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lacquer

303Lithgow 06-23-2012 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tx gun runner (Post 153932)
It depends on what you need the finish to do or how to protect wood in which finish to use . I have guns with 4 different finishes for over 20 yrs . I use and like lacquer in a spray can . Its super fast to spray and put on wood and it is super hard finish and drys super fast . Tung and linseed oils the wood sucks them in and can't be removed from wood like polyurethane or laquer which are paints that set on top of wood and not sucked into wood . The oils can't and will never chip and let moisture into wood where paint will and allow wood to warp or swell and change POA . So you chose for your needs .

http://www.ehow.com/about_4618228_po...ane-paint.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tung_oil

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lacquer

The polyurethane isn't used much on stocks but it will give a high degree of protection from water and chemicals. It also gives it a hard protection layer for dents and scratches. I bought it decades ago to refinish an old wood ammo box that I took to the range. It protected so well I tried it on one rifle and then the can sat in the garage for 20 years. I was going to the hardware store after talking to you on the phone when I saw the can and thought I would try it on the Mare's Leg. So far it looks great. I've put as many light coats as I can on before needing it to cure completely so I can't do much with it for a week.

Had I not already had the can it would not have been my first choice and I hope I don't regret it.

tx gun runner 06-23-2012 12:18 PM

Ruger I think uses urethane on there stock . I cut a stock down on my number 3 and the duct tape I used to mark the cut , when I removed tape the finish peeled off stock . Boy was I pissed . The good news is I was able peeled all the finish off gun .

303Lithgow 06-23-2012 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tx gun runner (Post 153934)
Ruger I think uses urethane on there stock . I cut a stock down on my number 3 and the duct tape I used to mark the cut , when I removed tape the finish peeled off stock . Boy was I pissed . The good news is I was able peeled all the finish off gun .

I think it also matters if you are using the urethane on an open grain or a closed grain. With open grain it seems to get more grip. I've only used it on course open grained wood.

Most Tung Oil today isn't really Tung Oil at all but rather a polyurethane or even varnish.

303Lithgow 06-23-2012 05:18 PM

As I watch the urethane dry it seems to dry in the exact patterns as the stain when soaking into the wood. It appears it IS soaking in and not just on the surface. End grain seems to be drying faster or is it just soaking in more?

tx gun runner 06-23-2012 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 303Lithgow (Post 153935)
Most Tung Oil today isn't really Tung Oil at all but rather a polyurethane or even varnish.

That is why you read the label on can before buying anything and if you get from Wally World read it 4 time and look for trick words :razz:. The last one I got was Formby's 20 yrs ago and it was real tung oil . The same thing go for stains also read the labels .

303Lithgow 06-23-2012 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tx gun runner (Post 153939)
That is why you read the label on can before buying anything and if you get from Wally World read it 4 time and look for trick words :razz:. The last one I got was Formby's 20 yrs ago and it was real tung oil . The same thing go for stains also read the labels .

Even boiled linseed oil isn't boiled anymore. And a silver dollar isn't silver.

303Lithgow 07-07-2012 12:00 PM

My Mare's Leg stock work has turned into a disaster, sort of. At one point it was finished in polyurethane and not bad but had some blemishes I needed to take care of so I sanded it down but I went all the way to the wood in spots. I also put a few dents into it by accident. Then when I reaplied the poly the spots sanded down to the wook appeared differant. Several more coats of poly and sanding made it look old instead of new and then it just started to look well worn and a hundred years old.

Wish I could say I had some insight into this but it just sort of happened. I haven't put the furniture back on the pistol but when I do I'll post a picture. I would never try this with a vintage gun but it sure worked out for this one.

tx gun runner 07-07-2012 12:36 PM

A good way to cut the value of a vintage gun in half or make the value of the gun to a shooter is to refinish the wood and or medal . A little linseed oil or old english on the original finish if the wood is drying out to keep it from cracking . I seen a $1000 94 Winc refinshed to a $200 shooter .

303Lithgow 07-07-2012 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tx gun runner (Post 154137)
A good way to cut the value of a vintage gun in half or make the value of the gun to a shooter is to refinish the wood and or medal . A little linseed oil or old english on the original finish if the wood is drying out to keep it from cracking . I seen a $1000 94 Winc refinshed to a $200 shooter .

Exactly. My main collection is WWI and WWII rifles and pistols. They aren't suppost to look pretty. I go to great lengths to make sure all the screws and parts are correct. Linseed oil is a common mil-spec finish for military weapons so I use it a lot. The Russians used varnish a lot and the British painted their weapons with black paint.

I've seen so many cartouches on guns sanded down that it makes me sick.

My pre-29 Winchester 94 had been varnished decades ago but came off with soft rubbing with my fingers and a terry cloth. The metal had some grime on it that came off with CLP and the same soft rubbing.

I try to think of it as restoring and not refinishing. Thats why I was wondering if the Win 97 had been reblued.

tx gun runner 07-07-2012 02:16 PM

The 97 is not a collect gun , It is a race and work gun setup for SASS/CAS shooting . The bluing is 100 % original . The gun is super tight and in perfect working order . Out of the last 1000 or so 97 TD I've seen this was the best one .

Your can restore cars but you can't not restore firearms . A old rusty S&W is worth more then a reblued one .

303Lithgow 07-07-2012 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tx gun runner (Post 154139)
The 97 is not a collect gun , It is a race and work gun setup for SASS/CAS shooting . The bluing is 100 % original . The gun is super tight and in perfect working order . Out of the last 1000 or so 97 TD I've seen this was the best one .

Your can restore cars but you can't not restore firearms . A old rusty S&W is worth more then a reblued one .

Now you tell me. :( I would have bought it anyway.:-D

Any SASS/CAS shooting gun is stock enough for me. There are things you can do to a vintage gun and things you can't.

A few years ago I came across a WWII 03A3 that someone had drilled and tapped for a scope yet everything else was vintage. I guessed that the way it was drilled and tapped was to mil-spec and guessed right. It now has a military scope mount and a civilian All-Weather Lyman scope on it. The All-Weather scope was one that the military bought and used so it is built to spec even though its not a true 03A4. Even though its a recent put-together it looks like its been that way since 1943 which is when the rifle was made.

303Lithgow 07-07-2012 03:19 PM

Here is the rifle. Even the cutdown bolt is mil-spec which I had to buy. I also did the cutout on the stock. I looked at pictures before doing so and found a wide way of doing it so any way would be correct. As you can see in the picture the serial number isn't visible so its not a true A4 but you can't tell from ten feet away.

http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums/...03A3to03A4.jpg

tx gun runner 07-07-2012 06:13 PM

I had a Springfield / Remington 4 groove 03A4 made in 1943 I think , new unfired in mint condition and a gun shop sold it for $2800 for me . Took them 2 week to sell . They also sold a Brit 303 new unfired for $900 . I took it out of the cosomline . That was over 8 years ago .

303Lithgow 07-07-2012 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tx gun runner (Post 154144)
I had a Springfield / Remington 4 groove 03A4 made in 1943 I think , new unfired in mint condition and a gun shop sold it for $2800 for me . Took them 2 week to sell . They also sold a Brit 303 new unfired for $900 . I took it out of the cosomline . That was over 8 years ago .

Wow, you have owned cool guns! What year was the Enfield? Where was it made? I've seen some post WWII Enfields still in the cosmoline. I had a chance to buy a FAZ made in 1954 for $150. I pasted because I prefer the war years.

tx gun runner 07-07-2012 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 303Lithgow (Post 154145)
Wow, you have owned cool guns! What year was the Enfield? Where was it made? I've seen some post WWII Enfields still in the cosmoline. I had a chance to buy a FAZ made in 1954 for $150. I pasted because I prefer the war years.

It came from down under and it was around the 40's if I remember ...Where is are buddy from down under . I sure miss his input .:cry::cry::cry:

303Lithgow 07-07-2012 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tx gun runner (Post 154148)
It came from down under and it was around the 40's if I remember ...Where is are buddy from down under . I sure miss his input .:cry::cry::cry:

Dang it was a No 1 Lithgow. That is my most favorite gun.


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