Reloading styles

moakes58

I am doing a lot of prep work of my brass, as I may not get to reload for awhile after my shoulder surgery(left) toward the end of the month.

I like talking about reloading, as it is one of my passions, along with emptying the brass

I reload for .380 & .45 ACP, as well as 9mm & .223 Rem.

I have a single stage Lee with their Breech Lock quick change die system & I think it's a great invention. All dies have a quick change bushing( here's a link)
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Lee-B...e+die+bushings

You install the bushing in the press, then install the die & set up, adjust as normal, then lock it down & you are set. I occasionally check them, but have not had a setting move in the over 2 years I have been using the system. I use Lee 3 die sets for my handgun calibers & have a Lyman 2-die set for my rifle

I have been told by many experts that you get better results by crimping and seating in different steps & I do not doubt that, but I get excellent results by backing the seating stem out, setting up the crimp 1st, then adjusting the seating stem for the desired seating depth for the bullet being used, and my crimp setting never moves. It works well for me.

I describe myself as a "Batch" re-loader. I take a batch of spent cases, separated by caliber, de-prime the dirty cases using a universal de-primer( Lee, Lyman & RCBS make them, maybe more), then clean the cases in 1/2 white vinegar, 1/2 water and a drop or 2 of dishsoap.
I let them soak for about 20 minutes, shaking occasionally, then rinse and run them in a Lyman sonic cleaner for about 13 minutes with water & a tablespoon Lemi-Shine, citric acid powder will work also. They come out somewhat shiny, but very clean, including the primer pockets. then spread out on an old towel to dry for a day.

I then resize the cases, and in the rare instance that I missed 1 de-priming, I get it in this step. .380 & .45 acp are straight walled & size easily, but 9mm, that has a slight taper to them, when clean of all the burnt powder, can be tough to size. I solve this by mixing a dab of Lee's lube in a little warm water in an old baby food jar, shake it and put a little in the lid & dip the rim of the case in & the job is easy. I only have to dip every 5th case or so & clean the die yearly of build-up.

I then flare the case, to accept a new bullet, and normally prime in 1 step, on the press, using Lee's safety prime system. It feels a bit awkward/cheap on 1st examination, but works great & you never touch the primers. I also have a Lyman Hand-held primer that works equally as well.

I then have hundreds of cases cleaned, primed, flared & ready for whatever bullet/powder combination I want to use.
I like having the brass to this step, because I can load & seat 100-150 cases safely in about an hour, after setting up my Lyman 55 powder measure, which is a jewel to use & drops very consistently. I leave the Lee Perfect powder measure set for my .223 Rem powder drops at around 25 grains & just make minor adjusments for my rifle powders, Hodgdon CFE 223 or BLC-(2), & the Hornady 40 or 55 grain bullets I use.

Thanks for listening to my rants on my obsession & now, back to the bench to prime/flair 100 cases of 45 acp, from my last 1911 brass emptying session.

tx gun runner

I hope all this make sense

I prepare all my brass for loading . Note primers are facing up waiting for the next 5 steps



Then I take each bullet and do the next 5 steps in 1 motion and complete each round , before moving to the next round .
There is no way to double charge or miss a charge . If you must stop in the middle of the 5 steps put it back in loading block
with the primer up and dump the powder . Never leave powder in a uncompleted round .



I run all my bottom feeder rounds threw a taper crimp die before boxing them up . THIS IS A MUST IN MY BOOK

moakes58

It makes perfect sense to me & it's a safe & reliable system.